For letter carriers & USPS employees

Route2Retirement

A retirement planner built for postal employees and their families. Enter your numbers once β€” pay, TSP, Roth, Social Security, spending, loans, a spouse if you have one β€” and it tries every combination of retirement age and Social Security age, shows which ones your money can handle, and helps you see what a little more saving, a little less spending, a side income, or a well-timed Roth move would change. Whether you're not career yet, working toward retirement, or already retired.

πŸ”’ Everything stays on your phone or computer. Nothing you type is sent anywhere. How your entries are stored Β· Save / load a copy

Start here β€” which are you?

Pick one. The questions below adjust to fit, and the decision points are written for your situation.

1About you

Your basic USPS work history. Your High-3 salary is on your latest annuity estimate from LiteBlue or HR.

πŸ“„ Have a pay stub handy? Fill these from it and we'll do the rest

Use one recent earnings statement (every-two-weeks numbers, just as printed). Overtime in that check is fine β€” we sort out basic pay from the TSP line.

$
$
$
%
$
Lets us work out your basic pay (for the pension) when overtime is in the check.
πŸ“„ Have your yearly Personal Statement of Benefits? Enter it here β€” it's the best source for several of these

USPS mails this each year (also on LiteBlue). Type the figures with the labels the statement uses. Blank is fine for anything you don't see.

Front page. This is your career date for FERS β€” it already includes any military or other time you bought back, so leave "years bought back" at 0 when you use it.
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Page 2. Includes overtime β€” the real annual figure.
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Page 2 "Retirement" line β€” your FERS pension contribution. From it we work out your basic pay for High-3.
$
%
hrs
Adds to your service for the pension: 2,087 hours = one year. That's why "bank your sick leave."
$
Paid to you as a lump sum when you retire (taxable). Max carryover 640 hours.
Last page. We'll compare it with what this tool computes.
yrs
Years/months as printed (excluding sick leave); e.g. 21 yrs 6 mos = 21.5.
years
Career is the date that counts for the FERS pension and TSP β€” time as a CCA, RCA, or PSE before conversion doesn't add to your years. It's on your SF-50 or in LiteBlue. Bought-back military or other time goes in the next box, not here.
years
Only time you've actually made (or will finish making) the deposit for β€” usually military service, paid through HRSSC (form SF-3108; about 3% of your military base pay, plus interest if you waited). It counts toward eligibility and the pension formula, but not toward the FERS supplement, which is based on civilian years only. If you receive military retired pay, ask HR β€” you normally have to waive it for the time to count.
$
What you actually earn in a year, overtime included if it's steady β€” this is what your take-home and savings run on. (The pension itself uses basic pay only; see High-3.)
$
The "net pay" on your earnings statement β€” what actually lands in the bank after taxes, TSP, health insurance, and the rest. Pick "per paycheck" and type one check's net; we do the Γ—26 Γ· 12. We only use it to double-check that your other numbers hang together.
$
The average of your basic pay rate over your highest 36 consecutive months β€” usually your last 3 years. It is not your three biggest W-2 years: overtime, night differential, and Sunday premium don't count, so a year you earned the most may not be a High-3 year at all. (Locality pay does count.) If you work a lot of overtime, put your basic annual pay here β€” the TSP line on your stub helps: TSP 10 = $295 means basic pay of $2,950 that period, about $76,700/yr. Your official figure is on the annuity estimate in LiteBlue. Not sure, or not career yet? Leave it blank: we use your current pay grown by the yearly-raise rate (advanced settings, 2%) to your retirement year.

2Your savings

Your TSP balance is at tsp.gov or on your quarterly statement.

$
%
USPS adds up to 5% more on top when you put in at least 5%. On your earnings statement the TSP line shows the percentage you chose (e.g. "TSP 10" = 10% of basic pay).
Leave blank if you're already contributing β€” or if you entered a future career year in step 1 (TSP starts then). Non-career employees (CCA, RCA, PSE) can't join until conversion.
$
0 if you don't have one yet. (A traditional IRA goes with your TSP balance instead β€” it's taxed the same way.)
$
The 2026 IRS limit is $7,500 a year ($8,600 at 50+). Our recommendation: set it up as an automatic monthly transfer and forget it β€” it builds the way TSP does, without thinking about it. Not in TSP yet? Start here. Nearing retirement? Still worth it: you've already paid tax on what you put in, and everything it earns comes out tax-free later.
Earnings come out tax-free only 5 years after your first contribution (and after 59Β½), so the plan won't touch your Roth before then. Blank = starting this year.
$
Bank savings, CDs, brokerage accounts β€” everything that isn't TSP or a Roth IRA. 0 is fine. Growth on this money counts as taxable interest when the tax estimate is on.
$
Besides the Roth IRA amount above. Look at last year's bank or brokerage statements β€” what really went in, not what you hope to. We assume the same each year until you retire; after that, the plan works out on its own whether money is left over.
If some of your money grows differently from the rest β€” a brokerage account, a mutual fund, CDs, an annuity, rental savings β€” list each one here with the yearly growth you expect for it. Whatever you don't list stays in "Other savings" above at the default rate. When money is needed, the plan spends the slowest-growing account first.

πŸ“ˆ Yes, growth is counted: we assume TSP earns 7%/yr while you work and 4%/yr once retired, and other savings earn 4%/yr. Change these in the advanced settings.

3Your Social Security

Log in at ssa.gov/myaccount and open your Statement. It lists your estimated monthly benefit at different ages.

Thinking about drawing Social Security while you're still working at USPS?

Lots of postal employees do this β€” often to keep working (and keep FEHB/PSHB) while a check starts coming in. The rules, plainly:

  • Before 67 (full retirement age): the earnings test applies. In 2026, earned income over about $23,400 a year cuts your check by $1 for every $2 over. On a full postal salary that usually wipes the check out β€” which is why this plan doesn't offer "claim before 67 while still working" (those grid boxes show "β€”"). The money isn't lost forever; SSA recalculates your benefit upward at 67 for months withheld, but it's a poor trade for most.
  • At 67 and after: the earnings test disappears. You can work full time and draw your full Social Security, no reduction β€” and each extra year of postal pay can still raise the benefit a little. Health insurance continues as an active employee (Medicare Part B isn't required while you're working with employer coverage; enroll within 8 months of retiring).
  • The FERS supplement (paid to some retirees until 62) has the same earnings test β€” a retirement side income over the limit trims it first.

So a common, sound pattern is: keep working to 67 for the paycheck and the insurance, start Social Security at 67 (or wait to 70 for the larger check), and retire when the numbers say so. Try "retire at 68, Social Security at 67" in the grid to see it. Extra income you enter in step 7 counts as earned income for these rules, and the plan applies them automatically.

Early in your career? Your Statement only shows retirement estimates once you have about 10 years of work (40 credits). Until then, use SSA's official Quick Calculator β†— (birth date + current pay), or let us make a rough estimate from your pay:
$
Age 67 is "full retirement age" for anyone born in 1960 or later.
$
Leave blank and we'll estimate it (about 70% of the age-67 amount).
$
Leave blank and we'll estimate it (about 124% of the age-67 amount).

4Your spending

Nobody spends evenly through retirement β€” the early "go-go" years (travel, projects, grandkids) usually cost more than the quieter years later, when most of us stay closer to home and live more simply. Enter what a typical month looks like in each stretch, in today's dollars β€” the math converts everything to future dollars for you. Only the first box is required; leave any box blank to keep the same amount as the stretch before. Don't count loan payments β€” those go in step 5 so they can stop when a loan is paid off.

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Everything you spend in a typical month today, not counting loan payments (those go in step 5) or money you put into savings. Leave it blank and we'll estimate it from your take-home pay.

$
From the day you retire until 70 β€” usually your most active, most expensive years. (While you're still working, we assume your paycheck covers the bills.) Retiring years before Social Security? This box covers those years too β€” the plan bridges them with your pension, the FERS supplement (until 62, if you qualify), and TSP, and the year-by-year table shows exactly how much TSP has to carry.
$
$
Most people naturally slow down and spend less here.
$

5What you owe

Loans you're still paying on. We add the payments to your spending until each one is paid off, and subtract what's owed when we show your net worth. Leave rows blank if they don't apply.

Amount still owed Monthly payment Paid off in (year) Home
$
$
Cars
$
$
Other debt
$
$

Credit cards, personal loans, family loans, a second car β€” anything with a monthly payment. Leave the year blank and we'll estimate it from the balance and payment.

6Big future purchases

Cars wear out, kitchens age, travel calls, kids get help. Plan the big one-time costs here so the numbers stay honest. Enter today's prices β€” the math adjusts them for inflation to the year you pick. "Cash" means it's paid from savings that year; "borrow" spreads monthly loan payments over the term instead.

What About how much (today) In year How you'd pay
$
$
$
$

Leave rows blank if they don't apply. Borrowing uses the interest rate in the advanced settings (7% unless you change it). Try a purchase in different years or cash vs. borrowing and watch how the plan reacts β€” that's what this section is for.

7Extra income

Side work, self-employment, rental income β€” money the two of you expect to keep earning in retirement. Skip it if there's none.

How much would a side hustle really need to earn? (and the one rule to know)

You don't have to guess. Run the plan: when a combination falls short, the results box shows the exact extra income per month that would make it work β€” and when the numbers already work, it shows what it would take to get out a year sooner. Then come back here and enter that figure to see the whole picture change. Even a few hundred dollars a month, kept up for some years, moves retirement dates.

The one rule: before 67, earned income over about $23,400 a year (2026, rising with inflation) trims Social Security β€” and the FERS supplement β€” by $1 for every $2 over. From 67 on there's no limit. The plan applies this automatically, so what you see is already net of it. Rental income and investment income don't count as "earned" for this rule; work and self-employment do (this tool treats everything entered here as earned, which is the conservative reading).

Enter it before taxes. If it's a business, remember self-employment tax comes out of it too β€” the tax estimate here counts it as ordinary income.

$
Before taxes. Yours, your spouse's, or both together.
$
Military retired pay, a pension from a job before the Post Office, a union pension. Before taxes. Leave 0 if none.
$
Money you expect to receive once β€” an inheritance, a property sale, a settlement. It gets added to your savings in the year you pick. Leave 0 if none.

8Spouse or partner

Advanced settings β€” fine if you never touch these
% / yr
% / yr
% / yr
Required TSP withdrawals from age 73 happen either way. The plan below tells you how the other order would have turned out.
% / yr
% / yr
% / yr
% / yr
years
101 is a very safe planning target β€” better to plan long than run short.
% / yr
Used when a big purchase in step 6 is set to "borrow."
This is the health plan you pick at open season (Blue Cross, GEHA, MHBP, and so on). The program those plans sit in is called PSHB β€” it was FEHB until Jan 1, 2025, when postal employees and retirees moved to the postal-only PSHB section of the same program; your card just shows the carrier's name. You keep that same plan when you retire (and can still switch plans at any open season), FEHB years count toward the 5-year rule, and there is nothing new to sign up for at retirement except Medicare Part B at 65. Postal retirees can keep their plan for life if they retire on an immediate pension after 5 straight years enrolled β€” and USPS keeps paying its share: annuitants get the same formula as employees (the Postal Service pays about 72% of the program-wide average premium, up to 75% of your plan). What you pay is deducted from your FERS pension each month, after tax. Your share in retirement can run a little above your paycheck deduction (some union contracts give active craft employees a slightly larger USPS share), so the number to use is the annuitant rate for your plan on OPM's PSHB premiums page β€” the paycheck deduction is a fine starting point. At 65, most postal retirees must also enroll in Medicare Part B to keep PSHB β€” about $203/mo per person in 2026 (people who were 64+ on Jan 1, 2025, or already retired then, are exempt). Many PSHB plans give back part of the Part B premium β€” a yearly credit β€” and/or charge Medicare enrollees a lower plan premium; check your plan brochure and enter the credit below. Two things people get wrong: (1) skipping Part B is penalty-free only while you're covered by a plan from current employment β€” yours or a spouse's; retiree FEHB/PSHB doesn't count, so waiting means a permanent 10%-per-year surcharge. If you're still working at 65, enroll in Part B when you retire β€” you have 8 months from your last day, penalty-free (this plan adds it at retirement in that case); and (2) if you're in the required group and don't enroll, you can lose PSHB itself, drug coverage first. A spouse covered under your plan follows the same rules β€” Part B at their 65 (we add it then), unless they're covered by their own job's plan while still working, in which case they enroll within 8 months of leaving that job. If you turn this on, leave health insurance out of your monthly spending so it isn't counted twice. Which plan covers a particular medication is a plan-brochure question β€” check before you retire.

Roth conversions & IRA rollovers

Two moves worth understanding, especially in the low-income years between retiring and starting Social Security: (1) a Roth conversion β€” move some TSP money into a Roth IRA, pay tax on it now at a low bracket, and it (and everything it earns) is tax-free forever, with no required withdrawals; (2) a plain rollover to a traditional IRA, which is tax-free and is what makes charitable giving straight from retirement money possible (TSP can't do that; an IRA can). The plan below compares each with and without, in dollars.
"Fill the bracket" is the classic approach: convert just enough each year to use up the low bracket without spilling into the next.
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A "qualified charitable distribution": from 70Β½ you can send up to $111,000 a year (2026) directly to a charity from a retirement account β€” it counts toward your required withdrawal and is never taxed. Catch: TSP itself doesn't offer this β€” you'd roll some TSP into a traditional IRA first (a routine, tax-free move). Enter today's dollars; we inflate it. Only matters when the tax estimate is on.
hrs
Counts toward the pension computation (2,087 hrs = 1 year), not toward eligibility. Filled from your benefits statement if you use it; we assume the balance you enter is what you'll have.
$
Unused annual leave is paid as a taxable lump sum when you leave; it lands in other savings that year.
$
Leave blank to auto-estimate: age-62 benefit Γ— years of service Γ· 40.

Quick check before you run it

Here's what you've told us so far. Give it a once-over β€” if something looks off, fix it above.

Pick your combination

Each box tries one plan: retire at the age on the left, start Social Security at the age on top. The number is how long your money lasts. Yellow means close call either way β€” read those for margin and direction, not the exact edge. Tap any box to see its details below.

βœ“ Lasts past 95 with a cushion Close call β€” barely makes it, or runs out within a few years of 95 Runs out in your 80s or early 90s Runs out before 80 β€” Not eligible / not advised

How this plan plays out

Your savings over time
TSP + other savings at the end of each year. Hover or tap for details.
Where each retirement year's money comes from
Bars are income; the dark line is your spending (rising with inflation).
Year-by-year numbers (table)

Starts this year and runs to the end of the plan. Rows before you retire show your paycheck covering the bills, with what goes into (or comes out of) savings. Balances are what's left at the end of each year, in future dollars.

What this plan assumes
    How this compares with OPM's Federal Ballpark Estimator (a good cross-check)

    Privacy & terms

    What's stored, and where. To save you retyping, the numbers you enter are kept in this browser's own storage on this device β€” not on any server, and never sent anywhere. Nothing you type includes your name, Social Security number, or account numbers. On a shared or borrowed device, turn saving off or clear your entries when you're done.

    Keep a copy of your entries. Save them to a small file on your device (or email it to yourself), and load it back here any time β€” on this or another device. Nothing is sent anywhere; the file is just your entries.
    You can also drag a saved file anywhere onto this page.

    Terms, in plain English. Route2Retirement is a free educational tool made by and for postal workers. It gives rough estimates from the numbers you enter and standard assumptions; it is not financial, tax, or legal advice, and it can be wrong. Nothing here is a promise about what you'll receive from FERS, TSP, or Social Security β€” confirm those with HR/OPM, tsp.gov, and ssa.gov, and talk to a qualified planner before deciding. It's provided as-is, without warranty; you use it at your own risk. Not affiliated with, or endorsed by, the U.S. Postal Service, OPM, or the Social Security Administration.